Category: ireland

Blarney Castle, Blarney, County Cork, Republic of Ireland

Blarney castle was a fun, if kitschy, stop near Cork along our southern route back to Dublin. The 15th-century fortress is best known as the home of the famous “Blarney stone,” which allegedly gives those who kiss it the gift of gab. Kissing the stone is a bit of a feat: the only way to reach it is by laying on your back on the floor of the castle’s highest story, letting the top half of your body dangle over the edge, and arching your back to push your head even further down, all while trusting the assistant holding your feet to not let you fall. The shorter you are, the harder this is (I’m 5’6″ and my bum was dangling over the side along with my torso), but hundreds of people of varied sizes and ages do it every day.

According to legend, the saying that something is “blarney” comes from the first Queen Elizabeth. During the Reformation, Cormac MacCarthy, Lord of Blarney, visited the Queen in order to argue for his realm’s independence. He managed, through a variety of polite excuses and charm, to both delay relinquishing control and paying tribute to the crown while promising to do so in the future. Eventually, after receiving the latest in a long series of apologies and flimsy justifications for further delay, Elizabeth lost her temper and cried out in frustration: “This is all Blarney! He never means what he says!”

The castle’s extensive grounds include a charmingly deadly and informative poison garden, caves that once doubled as prison cells, and several walking paths.

All photos by Renée DeVoe Mertz, May 28, 2013, unless otherwise stated.

Muckross Friary and Killarney National Park, County Kerry, Republic of Ireland

Cloister Yew Tree, Muckross Friary, Killarney National Park. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz, May 28, 2013.

A gem hidden within the grounds of Killarney National Park, Muckross Friary is located about a mile (on foot) from the parking lot of the sprawling mansion known as Muckross House. The monastery was once home to the strict order of the Observantine Franciscans, but had a relatively short life as a working friary. In 1541, only about a hundred years after its founding, Henry VIII ordered Muckross’s suppression. It was re-established in 1612, but Cromwellian forces finally drove out the inhabitants and burned the structure in 1652.

Today, Muckross’s most notable feature is the old yew tree that rises dramatically from the center of its cloister. Its bell tower, which was a later edition to the building, is also unique to Irish Franciscan buildings in that it spans the full width of the church.

The trails in Muckross Estate are easily managed and bountifully lined with twisting trees and fields of flowers. However, if you prefer not to walk, jaunting cars (aka, horse-drawn carriages) are available for hire at the parking area by Friar’s Glen and Torc Waterfall. Their eager drivers compete to take tourists past the sites along Muckross lake, and are willing to bargain with would-be passengers. The ride should cost around 5 Euro.

Torc Waterfall, Killarney National Park. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz, May 28, 2013.
Josh in Friar’s Glen, Killarney National Park. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz, May 28, 2013.

Iveragh Peninsula and the Ring of Kerry, County Kerry, Republic of Ireland

After leaving Dingle, we made our way down Iveragh Peninsula towards the ports we hoped would take us to Skellig Michael and its resident puffins. We eventually settled in for the night at the lovely Final Furlong B&B, where we watched horses graze in the backyard while the sun set over the lake.

View of the Skelligs (far backround) and nearby islands, from Iveragh Peninsula. Panorama by Joshua Albers, May 28, 2013.

We knew that getting to the Skelligs would be something of a gamble, as boats don’t go out in poor weather and weather in Ireland is unpredictable. I was, therefore, relieved the next morning to find the sky overcast but not rainy, and we hurried on to find a ship to take us to this much anticipated destination. What we didn’t realize was that even though the weather on land seemed fine, the wind was making the sea too choppy for safe passage. No ships were making the journey to the Skellig rocks that day, nor were they expected to go out in the near future. Eventually, we admitted defeat and journeyed on.

With much of the day suddenly open ahead of us, we decided to take our time along the Ring of Kerry and made multiple stops within Killarney National Park.

Upper Lake, Killarney National Park. Panorama by Joshua Albers, May 28, 2013.
Iveragh Peninsula. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz, May 28, 2013.
Iveragh Peninsula. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz, May 28, 2013.
Killarney National Park. Photo by Joshua Albers, May 28, 2013.
Torc Waterfall, Killarney National Park. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz, May 28, 2013.
Muckross Abbey, Killarney National Park. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz, May 28, 2013.
Yew tree in cloister of Muckross Abbey, Killarney National Park. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz, May 28, 2013.
Killarney National Park. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz, May 28, 2013.
Killarney National Park. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz, May 28, 2013.

Gallarus Oratory, Dingle Peninsula, County Kerry, Republic of Ireland

Built in the shape of an inverted ship during the 7th or 8th century, the structure now known as Gallarus Oratory is the best preserved early Christian church in Ireland. The building has weathered the centuries and inhospitable climate impressively well, due in part to its simple, sturdy design and dry-stone corbelling. It has only two openings: a door and, on the opposite side, a small window. Neither are now covered, although there is evidence that the doorway once was.

All photos by Renée DeVoe Mertz, May 27, 2013.

Dingle Peninsula, County Kerry, Republic of Ireland

Buffeted by wind and waves, Ireland’s Western coast tends to be surprisingly stark and inhospitable compared to the lush mildness of the island’s interior. The contrast perhaps goes some way towards explaining why, in a country surrounded by water, beef and mutton are far more popular than fish.

This is not to say that the coastal regions are any less beautiful than the inland counties. Dingle is particularly spectacular, and having to rush through it was one the few regrets of our trip. However, we had hoped to take a boat from Iveragh Peninsula to Skellig Michael—the island’s third and final World Heritage site—the next morning, and our main goal was to see the Gallarus Oratory and Fahan Beehive Huts before settling-in near the port before nightfall.

Aside from the occasionally terrifying and stomach-churning blind turns on narrow coastal roads, the only negative memories we have of Dingle stem from the peninsula’s particular relationship with the many foreigners who drive the region’s economy and clog its traffic. Unlike the town of Adare or sites like Brú na Bóinne, Dingle’s tourist industry seems unusually decentralized and a little ad hoc. Many of the archaeological sites are on private land, and owners charge (a reasonable) admission after drawing tourists in with handmade signs. The brown landmark posts seen elsewhere in the country are mostly absent. The downside of this system is that it can be difficult to tell what is legitimate and what is a trap for gullible outsiders.

Unfortunately, we got burned early on, during our visit to the Gallarus Oratory. (For anyone going, be aware that this is a nationally owned site which is free to visit, but the neighboring visitor center is privately owned and will try to charge you). Feeling taken advantage of is of course a souring experience, and as a result we were more suspicious in our subsequent interactions than we had felt the need to be almost anywhere else on the trip. It also caused us to bypass some of the unverified sites on private land, which we soon realized was our second mistake.

Photo by Joshua Albers, May 27, 2013.

Photos by Renée DeVoe Mertz, May 27, 2013, unless otherwise stated.

Adare, County Limerick, Republic of Ireland

With its thatched roofs, heavily restored churches, lush golf course, and bus loads of grey haired tourists, contemporary Adare seems more like a Disneyland for senior citizens than an Irish village. However, one of the benefits of going to a place that targets this particular demographic is that most of its attractions are fairly accessible (aside from the ruined Franciscan friary, chapel, and church located on the grounds of the Adare Manor Hotel and Golf Resort). The centrally-located Heritage Center includes a large parking lot, and quite a bit of helpful signage has been sprinkled around the town. The downside, as with most touristy spots, is that everything feels a bit over polished and unreal.

Unsurprisingly, Adare owes much of its current appearance to 19th century renovations. Undertaken by the Earls of Dunraven in the 1820s and ’30s, the village’s refurbishment included the over-restoration of the Trinitarian Priory (founded by the Fitzgeralds in 1230 and now a Catholic church and convent located next to the Heritage Center). Further down the main road on the outskirts of town is the “Black Abbey,” an Augustinian friary founded by the Fitzgeralds in 1316. Now an Anglican parish church and school, the Black Abbey sits across from the grounds of Adare Manor and near the 13th century Desmond Castle.

All photos by Renée DeVoe Mertz, May 27, 2013.

Ennis friary and cemetery, County Clare, Republic of Ireland

Ennis Friary. Photo by Joshua Albers, May 27, 2013.

The earliest remains of the Franciscan friary at Ennis (Inis) date to the late 13th century, although much of the building actually comes from the second half of the 15th century. Founded around 1285 under the royal patronage of the O’Briens, Lords of Thomond, the friary soon became a burial site for kings and earls, and the town of Ennis grew up around it. By 1617, only one friar remained.

The site was undergoing a major reconstruction project while we were there, and relatively little of the decoration was in situ. Even so, Ennis possesses a number of fine examples of Irish Renaissance relief sculpture in its interior and decorated gravestones in its cemetery.

Relief of St. Francis of Assisi with the stigmata in Ennis Friary. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz, May 27, 2013.
Tracery canopy of the south arch. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz, May 27, 2013.
Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz, May 27, 2013.
Photo by Joshua Albers, May 27, 2013.
Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz, May 27, 2013.
Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz, May 27, 2013.
Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz, May 27, 2013.
Panorama by Joshua Albers, May 27, 2013.
Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz, May 27, 2013.
Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz, May 27, 2013.
Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz, May 27, 2013.
Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz, May 27, 2013.
Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz, May 27, 2013.
Photo by Joshua Albers, May 27, 2013.

Kilmacduagh Monastery, County Galway, Republic of Ireland

Central church and round tower at Kilmacdaugh. Photo by Joshua Albers, May 26, 2013.

Monuments to death and the crumbling remains of former eras dominated our trip to Ireland, but no site better conjured the macabre than the monastic settlement of Kilmacduagh.

It was also one of the most difficult destinations to find (second only to the Reyfad rock art in Northern Ireland). After a number of misfires and a detour into Coole Nature Reserve, we finally rolled into the settlement’s adjoining parking lot around dusk.

Located near the town of Gort, Kilmacduagh consists of several structures, including a well-preserved, slightly leaning round tower, an Abbott’s House (Glebe), and multiple churches. It isn’t possible to enter the tower, but getting into the Glebe and two of the churches only requires crossing the street and acquiring a key from the caretakers. But beware: they have a protective, bitey little dog, which Josh and his ankles discovered shortly after we rang their doorbell.

The site’s most obvious draws are of course the 11th-12th century round tower, Glebe, and remodeled, pre-Norman “cathedral,” all of which are grouped near the main road.

View from main road of round tower, “cathedral,” and cemetery, Kilmacduagh. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz, May 26, 2013.
Round tower with typical raised entrance (compare with the roughly contemporaneous sunken tower of Monasterboice, County Louth).
Relief detail from main “cathedral.”
Partially reconstructed Glebe (foreground); cathedral and round tower (background).
View from side road, showing (left to right): Glebe, secondary church (across main street), “cathedral,” and round tower.

However, the most memorable building is only slightly farther afield and requires closer investigation. Found at the end of the short side road that divides the parking lot from the main site, this small, unassuming church is easily overlooked. Its central spaces—decorated with high, delicate carvings—are enterable with the key.

From the interior, this charming but modest space appears to be all there is. However, circumambulating the exterior reveals that many of the windows and doors have been filled with stone, permanently concealing large sections of the building.

Fortunately, we were not the first people to be curious about the sealed rooms, and those that came before had left us a little assistance.

We were not disappointed by what we found.

Photos by Renée DeVoe Mertz, May 26, 2013, unless otherwise stated.

Ross Errilly Friary, County Galway, Republic of Ireland

Ross Errilly Friary. Panorama by Joshua Albers, May 26, 2013.

Ross Errilly Friary is probably the best preserved Franciscan monastery in Ireland; it is also one of the largest. Yet the site is curiously absent from many guidebooks and harder to find than more tourist-ready destinations. As a result, we found it gloriously uncrowded.

Founded in 1351, the monastery was enlarged in 1498 and ultimately abandoned in 1753. Now left largely unguarded, the remains sit beside a slim stream amongst sprawling cattle pastures.

The central cloister demarcates the boundaries of the more private spaces of the monks’ former living quarters from the church and bell tower. The domestic sections include a bakery, kitchen (complete with a water tank for live fish), dining hall, and, on the upper floors, dormitories. The presence of more recent graves throughout the building suggests that the entire structure is still on consecrated ground.

Photo by Joshua Albers, May 26, 2013.
Photo by Joshua Albers, May 26, 2013.

Photos by Renée DeVoe Mertz, May 26, 2013, unless otherwise stated.